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Alvah |  |
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Parish of Alvah, (County of Banff.)By the Rev. Mr George Sangster. |
Situation, Surface, & c.
The parish of Alvah is situated in the presbytery of Turriff, and Synod of
Aberdeen. Its form is irregular; extending in length about 6 English miles,
and at its greatest breadth to nearly the same distance, but in other places to
only 3 or 2. On the N. and N. W. it is bounded by the parish of Banff; on the
S. W. by Marnoch; on the S. by Forglen; on the S. E. by Turriff; and on the E.
and N. E. by King Edward and Gamery. The river Dovern enters this parish about
a mile below Forglen, the seat of Lord Banff, and after many beautiful windings
through a very fertile valley, leaves it about 2 miles from the sea. It
abounds with salmon, trout, and eel, and is frequented by wild ducks, widgeons,
teals, herons, & c. On the E. bank lie the estates of Dunluglas and
Inrichney, separated by the intervention of a part of the parish of King
Edward; and on the W. the lands of Mountblairie, Auchinbadie, Sandlaw, and a
small part of the barony of Alvah. About half a mile below the church, the
river is contracted by 2 steep and rugged precipices, which are commonly
denominated the Craigs of Alvah, where it measures about 50 feet in depth. The
scenery, which is naturally bold and picturesque, has been greatly embellished
by its noble proprietor, the Earl of Fife, by thriving plantations, and a
magnificent arch, which unites both sides of the river, and forms an easy
communication between the opposite parts of his Lordship's extensive park. The
fruitful haughs along the banks of the river are subject to frequent
inundations, which, in summer and harvest, make dreadful depredations among the
corns. This inconvenience is more especially felt in the neighbourhood of the
rocks of Alvah, which, during a flood, check the rapidity of the stream, and
make the water flow backward for nearly two miles, and spread more than a
quarter of a mile over the adjacent fields. As we recede from the river toward
the W. the country becomes more hilly and barren. Of these eminences, one of
the most conspicuous is the Hill of Alvah, which rises from the bed of the
river to a very great height, and serves as a common landmark to mariners, on
their approach to the coast. The majestic appearance of this mountain, which
is somewhat increased by the view of the church, manse, school, and a
farm-stead on its E. brow, is thus described by an indigenous poet.
Erigit ad nubes hic se mons Alvius ingens,
Oftentatque procul conspicienda juga.
Hic quoque Templa Deum surgunt in monte locata
Sublimi; surgit Pierdumque domus.
Agriculture, & c. - The air of this parish is in general dry and healthy. Its soil, along both sides of the river, is very fertile; deep on the haughs, and more shallow on the declivities. Nor are there wanting fruitful fields on the upper grounds, interspersed amongst the rough pastures and heath, which still occupy a very considerable part. The crops which are commonly cultivated are oats, barley, and peas; and on some of the richer and more sheltered spots, wheat has been tried with success. Turnip, for 20 years past, has been sown in the fields;; and clover and rye-grass have become a constant part of the rotation. Feeding for the butcher is carried on by a few; but rearing young cattle has of late years been found a more lucrative branch, and by consequence more generally practiced. As farms are not commonly let by the acre, it cannot be said with accuracy what value is put upon each. The best arable ground may rent about L. 1, or perhaps somewhat higher; a still greater quantity about 15 s. and much more about 12 s. or 10 s. and even below that value. There are only a few farms inclosed, nor does that mode of melioration keep pace with the other species of improvement. Hedges do not thrive, unless in places which are sheltered, as well as fertile. Feal or earthen fences have been found of short duration, and stone fences are quite expensive. But, though inclosures are not so frequent as might be wished, the practice of herding in winter is general; so that the turnip and sown grasses sustain little detriment from straggling cattle. Several of the farms are already brought to a very high degree of cultivation, and others are advancing by gradual progress to a like state of improvement. About the year 1747, the minister began to bring home his peats in carts, valued each at 4 s. 6 d. Before that period the fuel was carried in creels, and the corns in curracks; two implements of husbandry which, in this corner, are entirely disused. The straw brechim is now supplanted by the leather collar, the rashen theets by the iron traces; and more is now expended on a single cart, than would then have purchased both cart and horse. The size of the farms is increasing, and of consequence their number diminishes. We account one of from L. 30 to L. 50 rent, a middle sized farm. There are a few above that rent, but many more below it. - This parish, unless in very bad years, produces much more grain than is necessary for the subsistence of its inhabitants. Besides the farm-victual, which amounts to a very considerable part of the rent, there are large quantities, both of meal and barley, annually sold by the farmers for the supply of the neighbouring town of Banff, and for exportation. In 1782 the crop was so defective, that, according to the computation of inspectors, there was not grain within the parish sufficient to supply it beyond the month of April. By the attention and generosity of the heritors, and the bounty of Government, with L. 40 from the funds of the parish, the poorer sort were supplied. The most curious fact relating to that alarming period was, that the oats on the earlier grounds, which ripened, were plump, and were found on trial to yield an abundance of excellent meal, did not vegetate when sown next year; whereas the oats on late grounds, which were green, and neither filled nor ripened, sprang up with vigour. As this was not found out till too late, it proved of the greatest detriment to the succeeding crop. The feed, which had been bought up at an enormous expense, misgave; what might have greatly contributed to the support of families, was unprofitably cast into the ground; and what might have been profitably sown, was sent to the mill, where it made but a scanty return.
Population. - The numbers returned to Dr Webster were 1161. As there are no parish registers previous to the year 1720, the ancient state of its population cannot be ascertained. From the records since that period, it should seem that population is upon the decline.
Heritors, Stipend, Poor, & c. - The property of the parish belongs at present to 5 heritors, of whom only 1 resides. The manse was built in 1764. The church is very old, and in bad repair. The stipend is 58 bolls 2 firlots 2 pecks oat-meal; 5 bolls 2 firlots bear; L. 600 Scots, with 50 merks for communion-elements. The glebe consists of between 6 and 7 acres, of which the rough meadow of ground has been drained and cultivated by the present incumbent, and the whole inclosed. - The yearly collections amount to about L. 15 or L. 16, which, with the interest of L. 120, and L. 1, 10 s. the rent of some seats in the area of the church, constitute the whole funds for the maintenance of the poor.
Wages and Prices. - The wages of servants and mechanics, and the price of provisions have risen rapidly within these few years. The yearly wages of a man servant may be rated at L. 5, or L. 5, 10 s.; and of a woman at L. 2. A labourer earns 8 d. a-day. The price of beef, mutton, poultry, & c. is regulated entirely by the weekly market in Banff, of which an account will be given in the report from that parish.
Births, Marriages and Burials, for three different periods, viz.
7 years succeeding 1st Jan. 1720 Births 214 Aver. 30.6 Mar. 32 Aver.4.6 Bur. (no regist.)
7 years succeeding 1st Jan. 1750 Births 137 Aver. 19.6 Mar. 44 Aver. 6.3 Bur. 52 Aver. 7.4
7 years succeeding 1st Jan. 1780 Births 113 Aver. 16.1 Mar 43 Aver. 6.1 Bur. 62 Aver. 8.9
The marriages are restricted to those where the husband was a residenter; from the idea, the girls married out of the parish do not contribute to its population: But lest this should be deemed erroneous, it may be proper to notify, that the average of all, who were married during the first period, was 7 1/7; during the second, 9 3/7; and during the third, 9 4/7. In the year 1782, the number of parishioners, on an exact survey, was found to amount to 1070; which is very nearly the present state of it. Some years before it was rather greater. One principal cause of depopulation in this parish is, the eagerness of some improvers to take all their land under their own management; by which means mechanics, and even day-labourers are deprived of their crofts; and, as there are no villages within the parish, betake themselves to other places, where they can find accommodation. Why the same number of marriages doth not produce an equal number of births as in former times, is left to more intelligent heads to explain? There have been no extraordinary instances of longevity of late. Only one man has reached 100, and a few are on the verge of 90 years. The inhabitants are mostly employed in agriculture. There are several weavers and wrights, a few smiths and tailors, and often not one shoemaker. They are regular attenders of the Established Church; nor do the Dissenters, of whatever denomination, exceed 8 or 10.
Roads and Bridges. - The principal roads were made by the statute-work, and are kept in repair by the same means. It is commonly exacted in kind; but when commutations in money are more convenient for the people, they are accepted. Of late years, bridges have been built over the most dangerous passes, to the great accommodation and safety of travellers; and it is hoped, that, as soon as the funds can afford, more will be erected. Turnpikes are unknown in this corner of the country, and would undoubtedly be unacceptable at first; though the experience of their advantages might in time reconcile us. It must indeed be allowed, that, as the resort of our roads is but very little, they are not so necessary as on those that are more frequented.
Antiquities. - The are few or no antiquities in this parish worthy of a place in historical records. At the farm of Bog of Mountblairie are the remains of an old castle, situated in a swamp now overgrown with alder, and said to have been built by the Earl of Buchan; and on an eminence above it, the ruins of a chapel, adjoining to which is a well, famed of old for its sovereign charms, but now fallen into disrepute. Within these few years there was an iron laddle; and many still alive remember to have seen the impending boughs adorned with rags of linen and woolen garments, and the cistern enriched with farthings and boddles, the offerings and testimonies of grateful votaries, who came from afar to this fountain of health. At the foot of the hill of Alvah, towards the north, is another spring, which passes by the name of Com's or Colm's well, in honour, very probably, of the renowned Saint of Icolumkil.
The Statistical Account for Scotland, 1791-1799,Volume XVI, Banffshire, Moray & Nairnshire, Pages 8-14.